Xcalak, nothing but diving

If you have some extra time on your vacation, and enjoy diving, it is a 4 hour drive from Playa del Carmen to Xcalak, the jumping off point for the Chinchorro Banks. Xcalak is a tiny fishing village with restaurants where you can eat fresh fish in someone's home on their dining room table. There is nothing much to do here but dive.

Diving the Chinchorro Banks is excellent, uncrowded and unspoiled. There are usually tarpon and very interesting caves and holes. By the way, you can see Belize from a boat just off shore, the reef here is very alive and colorful.

Diving in Chinchorro only takes place on perfectly calm days, due to the 2 hour boat ride to get out to the reef. Don't attempt it in some dingy, or you will be very uncomfortable. Several of the dive shops have larger boats, including Aventuras Chinchorro Dive Shop XTC Dive Center (formerly Aventuras Chinchorro Dive Shop) 983-831-0461 www.xcalak.com.mx - tell them you heard about them on CancunSouth for a good deal.

Call ahead for reservations and to check on the weather, also some boats won't go out without a minimum number of people so check on that too. Dive trips last all day and cost around $125. There are two complexes with $100 a night cabañas in town, but if you bring your bug repellent the $8 a night Hotel Caracol is OK for a few nights (lumpy beds).

There is some amazing real estate for sale near Xcalak. Much of it on beautiful beaches. See www.beaches-r-us.com for details.

Rent a car and drive to Xcalak, only if you have sufficient sunlight and are pretty sure that the ocean will be calm. The drive takes 5-6 hours from the Cancun airport. Head south down the highway through Felipe Carillo Puerto and take a left just after the town of Limones, follow the signs. (stay a night in Cancun or Playa del Carmen if you get in late). There is a new highway that takes you to Xcalak, so turn right to go there, it is better than staying at Majahual. Majahual also has diving trips, but you go out in uncovered fishing boats. You will be burned and exhausted after 4+ hours in one of those babies. It is cheaper but these boats rarely have a radio, only have one engine and do not fair so well in high swells.

For lodging, try Sin Duda Villas, 8 kms north of Marina Mike's place in the village of Xcalak. They are solar powered and have an air of frugal elegance. Each room is unique.

KaiLuumcito is an awesome place to stay, just north of Majahual. rom Cancun, take Hwy 307 south toward Chetumal. Follow for about 185 miles to the turn off to Majahual and the Costa Maya. Follow for 30 more miles to the turn off to Uvero. Go left and follow the paved road for 5 miles to the dirt road turn off to Rio Indio. Turn right and follow the dirt road along the ocean for 2 miles until you see the KaiLuumcito sign. www.kailuum.com

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